The Chronicle Wine Selections - McClaren Vale Shiraz

Lynne Char Bennett

Friday, February 22, 2008

Located in South Australia, McLaren Vale lies south of Adelaide and is home to many vintners who specialize in making deep, dark Shiraz. Long, warm days ripen grapes, while cooling afternoon sea breezes from the Gulf Saint Vincent help maintain acidity.

Of the 50 wines the panel tasted, 10 were 2004s, 17 from 2005 and the remaining 23 were from the 2006 vintage. We are recommending 18 of the McClaren Vale bottles we sampled.

McLaren’s flavor profile blends dark plum and berry fruit with spice, chocolate and warm oak. The Shirazes tasted are balanced, with varying levels of tannin and acidity; some also have earthier notes and herb hints. Most alcohol levels are in the 14.5 percent range and offer a balance of good fruit and acidity; they aren’t overtly hot on either nose or palate. The best bottles have fine tannins and good structure to support some aging.

Several of our recommended wines rise above the $50 mark, but they are excellent examples of the layered and engaging Shiraz that McLaren Vale can produce.

Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Expatriate McLaren Vale Shiraz ($56) There’s a touch of rusticity in this Shiraz’s nose, which is produced by winemaker Corrina Rayment for Oliver’s Taranga Vineyard. There’s barnyard and some green notes balanced by a hint of brown sugar; the wine’s black fruit acidity, softer tannins and slight astringency will do well with food.
Rating: TWO STARS 2004 The Gate McLaren Vale Shiraz ($35) Made by winemaker John Davey, this full-bodied wine is concentrated but balanced, with plenty of classic dark fruit character tinged with chocolate and vanilla.

Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Hazyblur McLaren Vale Shiraz ($42) Grapes from 40-year-old vines were aged by winemaker Ross Trimboli for 16 months in American oak. Slightly waxy notes on the soft, full nose and palate of dark berry are supported by gentle spice and moderately firm tannins…

Read the entire article: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/02/22/WI2KV4V07.DTL