The Chronicle Wine Selections: Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc, like Chardonnay, is relatively trouble-free to grow. Compared to finicky grape varieties like Pinot Noir, it’s less expensive to cultivate and it can thrive in many climates. Unlike Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc is generally made with less overt oak influence, though many also incorporate into their winemaking some time on the lees, malolactic fermentation and new oak to impart a creamier mouthfeel and additional complexity.

Less oak means that the wine’s fruit aromas and flavors play a primary rather than supporting role. Stylistically, some people enjoy lean, herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc while others prefer a fruitier style with soft, more rounded acidity; we found a range of styles from Napa Valley.

Napa Valley is noted for Cabernet Sauvignon, but its Sauvignon Blanc often carries a Napa Valley premium too. Though good wines at everyday prices can be found, some bottles, especially if designated a reserve or from a single vineyard, can command prices as high as $50 or more. More prime Napa Valley vineyards used to be planted to Sauvignon Blanc. Nowadays, many wineries are concentrating on their higher-return red wine programs, so less Sauvignon Blanc is available.

The panel tasted 48 wines, primarily from the 2006 vintage. The 2006 vintage, with its cool, wet beginning, started later than usual and produced slightly less yield than 2005, which hit near record production. Late warmer weather in 2006 helped ripen grapes, so earlier picked varieties like Sauvignon Blanc had an opportunity to ripen a little longer.

We liked many of the wines and found several with the attractive, desired combination of concentrated fruit, touch of herb, bright acidity and long finish.

Sauvignon Blanc is one grape varietal that winemakers can make with a fair level of consistency. Once you identify your favorite style, you can usually enjoy it anew each year.

Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Artesa Reserve Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($22) Barrel aging (15 percent new oak) contributes to the spicy nose and palate of vanilla, clove and dried ginger. Rich lemon curd, dried apricot and pineapple round out the flavors, which help balance the tingly acidity of this bigger-style wine. Fuller-bodied, with 14.5 percent alcohol, the blend includes Semillon (7 percent) and Muscadelle (3 percent).

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($22) Only 2 percent of Sauvignon Musque clone adds a touch of discernable Gewurztraminer-like spice note to this wine. The complex nose has floral, ripe orange and lemon, and green stone fruit aromas. Juicy guava and mineral flavors offset tongue-tingling acidity that is ramped up by a touch of heat on the long, engaging finish.

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